Exterior - Basilica de la Sagrada Familia - Barcelona

February 27, 2014 - In 1882, Francisco de Paula del Villar, the first architect of the church, laid the foundation stone.  One and a half years later, Antoni Gaudi, a 31 year old, promising architect, took over the project for the next 43 years.

On November 7, 2010, with the naves finally enclosed, the church was dedicated and declared a minor basilica (a cathedral must be the seat of a bishop) by the Holy Father Benedict XVI, becoming a place for worship.  Basilica de la Sagrade Familia (Church of the Holy Family) is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Construction by the numbers -

• enclosed nave = 4500 square meters
• construction is well past 50% completed
• the innovative design includes 18 conical towers 
• almost completed:  four towers dedicated to the evangelists, the Virgin Mary and the four bell towers on the Glory Facade 
• 22 types of stone have been used in the construction over the past 132 years, representing the various processes and stages of geological time
• At the time of Gaudi's death in 1926 the project was less than a quarter complete 
• Construction was interrupted by the Spanish Civil War in 1936
• scheduled to be completed in 2026 to commemorate 100 years since Gaudi's death
• Gaudi dedicated 100% of his time to the project from 1914 until his death in 1926
• Gaudi left detailed plans/instructions for the completion of the church
• the Nativity facade was almost complete at the time of  Gaudi's death
• the Passion facade, completed from 1986, is the work of Josep Maria Subirachs
• financed completely by donations

If the Basilica de la Sagrada Familia is finished in 2026 it will have taken 144 years for construction.  The Milan Cathedral's construction lasted almost 600 years, Notre Dame in Paris, 182 years and the present St. Peter's Basilica in Vatican City, 120 years.

In response to the lengthy construction schedule, Gaudi was quoted as saying "My client is not in a hurry." 

The Passion facade was designed to be severe and simple with bare stone and straight lines to resemble skeletal bones.  Dedicated to the passion of Christ, his suffering and crucifixion, the facade was intended to be dramatic and strike fear into the onlooker.  This facade faces West, into the setting sun, symbolic of death.  Construction began in 1954 following instruction and design left by Gaudi. 

the Passion facade

current construction

Passion facade door

Glory facade - to be the last facade comleted

Nativity facade, facing the rising sun, symbolizes the birth of Christ, celebrates the joy of his birth and is decorated with scenes reminiscent of elements of life.  Gaudi wanted to construct this facade first because it was the most attractive and accessible to the public.  Construction from 1894-1930 was almost complete at the time of Gaudi's death in 1926.  He believed that if the Passion facade had been constructed first people would be turned off.

the three wisemen

At tortoise at the base of one column, represents the sea, a turtle is at the base of another column, represents land.  Both are symbols of time as something set in stone and unchangeable. Two chameleons can be found on either side of the facade, representing change. 

So long sweet semla!

Starting early to mid January (around the Epiphany.... the official end of the Christmas season) these wonderful little pastries started appearing in all the bakery windows.  Semla (singular) or semlor (plural) is the Swedish pastry that marks the period of indulgence before the season of Lent begins.  Tomorrow being Fat Tuesday (or Shrove Tuesday here in Sweden) it is the last day of indulgence before the Lenten fast begins... at least as far as the calendar is concerned.

semlor at Flickorna Helin Voltaire on Djurgarden - some of the best!

The semla (or Shrove Tuesday buns) have been around for a long time.  Originally it was just a cardamom scented wheat bun with the top cut off, insides scooped out and mixed with almond paste which is then put back into the bun.  The 'hat' is put back on, dusted with powdered sugar and served in a bowl filled with warm milk. 

Modern semla is prepared the same way but filled with whipped cream before its hat is replaced.... I have yet to see it served in a bowl of warm milk.  Semla is light and fluffy and not overly sweet.  I recommend eating it with a knife and fork or a lot of napkins because it can be messy.  It is not ideal to eat it in the car, wearing black jeans and a dark t-shirt... I speak from experience. 

equally delicious semlor at Riddarbageriet - our answer to Alon's Bakery in Atlanta, GA

As sad as I will be to have the semla disappear from bakery shop cases and counters, I look forward to the next food holiday in Sweden, which appears to be Waffle Day on March 25th. 

even 7-11 gets in on the semla action!

Park Guell - Barcelona

February 24, 2014 - Park Guell is a popular, whimsical space to enjoy the Barcelona spring weather and Gaudi architecture.  Situated at the foot of a mountain, on the edge of the city, it's quite a hike, so we took a cab for 10 euros instead of trying to navigate the bus/subway system.  I used the app, Hail O, to hail the cab... worked like a charm.  A line of taxis waits outside the park for the easy fare back.

The entire park encompasses 17,000+ acres, which is free to the public except for the area called the 'Monumental Zone' which requires a ticket for entrance.  Tickets can be bought online (and are slightly cheaper).  When buying online you must purchase entrance for a specific time period.  A limit of 400 tickets per 30 minute increments has been set to control crowds.

Online tickets:  general admission - 7 euros, children 0-6 years - free, children 7-12 - 4.90 euros
Onsite tickets:  general admission - 8 euros, children 0-6 years - free, children 7-12 - 5.60 euros

www.parkguell.cat

Background - in 1900, industrialist Eusebi Guell, commissioned Antoni Gaudi to create an estate for wealthy families on the property he bought called Muntanya Pelada (bare mountain).  The restraints placed on the acquisition of land in Park Guell, the exclusive nature and the challenging transportation issues of the time led to the demise of the project in 1914.  After Guell's death, his heirs offered the city a chance to buy the property which it did in 1922.  The park was opened to the public in 1926 and declared a UNESCO Cultural Heritage of Humanity site in 1984.  

trencadis (tile shard mosaic) - decorative technique, loved by Gaudi - green before it was trendy!

Casa del Guardia - one of two porter's lodges flanking the main gate

the interior of the porter's lodge

iron gates brought from Casa Vicens, earlier Gaudi work

metal door on the porter's lodges

interior stairway of one porter's lodge

Casa del Guardia - porter's lodge used by residents and visitors, now the gift shop

double flight of steps from front entrance up to the columns room

wall leading up the stairs

probably one of the most photographed, easily identified Gaudi pieces

fountain in the center of the stairs

Hypostyle Room (columns room) - conceived as a covered space to be used as a market for the estate

stairs leading to the esplanade known as the Teatre Grec (Nature Theater)

backside of the undulating bench that winds around the esplanade was planned by Josef Maria Jujol between 1910-1914.  Celebrations were held here from sports events to balloon flights to demonstrations of Catalan national affirmation.

view from the esplanade

view from the esplanade

wavy bench the wraps around 3 sides of the esplanade

navigating Park Guell

portico of the washerwoman - gardens of the former farmhouse, Casa Larrard, acquired to make Park Guell.  Casa Larrard became the residence of Eusebi Guell and his family.  In 1931, when the park was public, the Baldiri Reixac municipal school moved into the building. 

fika - refuel

portion of the exterior wall of Park Guell

Catalan architect, Antoni Gaudi, lived in this house from 1906 until his death in 1926.  It was originally a show house for the Park Guell residential development project.  The house was used as a private residence after Gaudi's death then turned into the Gaudi House Museum in 1963. 

Gaudi's work was inspired by nature, creating designs that felt good (ergonomic) and were functional.

Gaudi often designed furniture to compliment his architectural work.

a bassinet Gaudi designed for a family

a peep hole designed by Gaudi

tile in the house

same shape as the cross on top of Casa Batllo - maybe a model?

same sculpture that adorns a portion of the Basilica de la Sagrada Familia

many paths and porticos wind their way through Park Guell - these areas were originally meant to be divided into residential plots but was instead a plant nursery.  It was officially made into a public garden in the 1960s designed by Lluis Ruidor.  Officially called Austria Gardens due to the donation of trees from Austria.