Tuesday, April 14, 2015

Blue Lagoon/Northern Lights - Reykjavik, Iceland - 2 of 5

Located near the airport most people visit the Blue Lagoon upon arrival or just before departure.  Since we arrived late at night and were leaving on an early morning flight we bundled up and boarded a Reykjavik Excursions bus for the one hour drive through flat, wide expanses of lava fields to the Blue Lagoon on our second day in Reykjavik.


Reykjavik Excursions is the main tour outfit in the city.  With a large fleet of buses they are seen all around town day and night, picking up and dropping off visitors for Blue Lagoon, Golden Circle or Northern Lights tours.  They are punctual, accommodating and knowledgeable. 

on several occasions Sofia wanted to make sure someone held onto her so she wouldn't blow away!
The girls were not thrilled with an hour long drive, through rain, snow and hail, but were suitably impressed when they saw the light blue water surrounded by the black lava stones.


arriving at the Blue Lagoon during a snow storm
Blue Lagoon entrance
The Blue Lagoon has a lot of visitors but it doesn't feel crowded.  Upon entry you are given a wristband that is used to charge your purchases (food, drink, towels, etc.) while visiting and lets you lock/unlock lockers.  There is a nice, sit-down restaurant or a little cafe for a quick lunch.  The cafe has smoothies, sandwiches, paninis, chips, snack mix, fruit, beer and wine.

After a quick lunch we changed, showered and made a mad dash from the building to the warm water.  At first Sofia said she was not going to swim... partly because children under nine years old must wear arm floaties (provided).  We gave her the option of sitting inside by herself or freezing outside while we were in the warm water... within minutes she was laughing and enjoying the water.  The water is opaque due to the minerals, you can't see your hand just below the water's surface (the reason for floaties on younger children). This is the first pool I've been to where the lifeguards are wearing parkas!

The lagoon is man-made, 3-5 foot deep geothermal spa.  We spent most of our time crouched down with our heads just out of the water. We drifted around the lagoon finding hot spots and mud stations where we smeared our faces with mineral rich mud... it was too cold to leave any other body part exposed. Visitors are advised to put their hair up to keep it from getting wet and freezing but that's pretty hard to avoid.  There is one swim-up bar serving smoothies, green juices, beer, wine and algae 'ice cubes' to further enhance youthful skin.

view of the bathing lagoon from the cafe

We spent about an hour and a half in the pool before catching the bus back to Reykjavik (Reykjavik Excursion buses leave the Blue Lagoon at 15 minutes after every hour.)

leaving the Blue Lagoon... same day
Later that night Richard, Jayne, Annabel, Simon and I boarded the bus at 10pm to hunt for Northern Lights. After an hour long drive we stopped somewhere in the middle of the darkness, stood with 200 or so other souls who were crazy enough to be out in the cold in the middle of the night watching the night sky.  We waited and watched, cameras poised, for an hour and tried not to be annoyed by people using flashlights and flashes in the dark before returning bleary eyed to Reykjavik and our warm beds.

At 5pm every evening Reykjavik Excursions makes the call based on weather and Northern Light forecasts whether the hunt will go on. Hotels and guests who have made tour reservations are notified by email.  If an evening hunt has been canceled registered guests are welcome to sign up for the next outing. Our first night was canceled but the second night we got lucky.  There was not a big show and it was not considered a sighting so we are eligible for another trip within the next year. 


the best photo I got using a 30 second exposure

Monday, April 13, 2015

Reykjavik, Iceland series - 1 of 5

Spring Break - April 5-10, 2015

Sweden was never on my radar before moving to Stockholm and vacationing in Iceland had definitely never crossed my mind.  We had four full days in Reykjavik and I wish we'd had at least two more... for whale watching and more exploring. Not only have I fallen in love with Iceland, I can't wait to go back!

Random thoughts, impressions and information on Reykjavik, Iceland...
  • People are friendly, speak perfect English and yes, they wear Icelandic sweaters
  • Icelandair makes it easy to visit offering layovers of up to seven days on flights between Europe and the U.S. The airfare is reasonable and the planes are nice.
  • We rented a roomy apartment through airbnb two blocks from the city center.  It's very easy to get around the city on foot. Most day trips outside of Reykjavik are booked through tour agencies (group and private) that are very accommodating about picking up and dropping off almost anywhere. 
  • The weather is crazy!  Never has it been more true that if you don't like the weather wait five minutes...  we experienced sun, wind, rain, hail and snow several times a day. It felt like overkill packing snow boots, heavy winter coats, hats, gloves and scarves but not once we arrived. A bit of information from a visitors guide encourages you to hold onto your car door when opening it... the wind can take it off!
even the crosswalk guy wears a hat!
adding their own sunshine with a brightly colored house
a temporary break in the weather!
  • 874 AD first settler in Iceland, Ingólfur Arnarson, legend states that when he spotted land he threw his oars into the water and said he would settle wherever they washed ashore... Reykjavik (then known as Arnarhóll).
the red lips make him very intimidating
  • 1904 - first motorized fishing boats in Iceland made life/work easier, doubling the Icelandic population.
  • Iceland is a small country with a total population of around 330,000 people.  Reykjavik is the capital where 2/3 of the population resides.  The backbone of Iceland's economy has always been fishing until recently when tourism caught up. 
  • 1944 Iceland declared independence from Denmark (Greenland and the Faroe Islands are still autonomous Danish territories).
  • Prior to WWII Iceland's population was 130,000.  Iceland didn't really start to prosper or register any international attention until WWII when 50,000 American and British troops were stationed there.  This was the first time currency was needed and created in Iceland.  As a result for the first time this tiny country had more money to invest in their fishing fleet.
60,000 Icelandic krona = $433 US/3,839 Swedish krona/411 Euros
  • Reykja = smoke/steam, vik = bay
  • Icelandic sagas are mentioned a lot around here.  A saga is described in Wikipedia as a literary phenomenon of the 13th and 14th centuries focused on family history and the struggle within the second and third generation of Icelandic settlers during the 10th and early 11th centuries. In a nutshell, sagas = historical Icelandic literature. 
  • It's interesting to walk through another country's grocery store finding universal similarities and uniquely local items... like the Viking Snack of dried fish.
    tasty?!  Definitely an acquired taste
  • The airport duty free shop is right next to baggage claim and is packed with shoppers at midnight.
  • Many businesses open late... the first grocery store we tried didn't open until 11am, the first coffee shop we came across didn't open until 9am. We were excited to find a 24/7 grocery and a restaurant or two open at 8am.  This is because the bars don't really start hopping until after 11pm and are open until 4 or 5am.... what I've read, not from experience! 
  • Due to the geothermal quality of Iceland the city tap water has a very strong sulphur smell and taste. First task, buy large bottles of water at the grocery. This may have just been our apartment because our guides during the week insisted that Reykjavik's cold water is filtered through lava and is the cleanest, purest water. 
  • Visiting the Tourist Information Bureau is highly recommended.  These people understand the weather, where to go, what to see based on the time of year.... much easier than trying to sort it out yourself.  They will book your tours for you and are very flexible and accommodating should you need to make any changes.  The tour buses and vans are also very accommodating dropping and picking up anywhere in Reykjavik.  
We were so lucky to be able to coordinate our vacation plans with our London friends Richard, Jayne, Annabel and Simon.  It was great to catch up and explore together. 

Wandering around Reykjavik...

Audra, Gabby, Annabel and Sofia
Annabel, Sofia, Gabby and Audra
downtown Reykjavik
Sólfar (Sun Voyager) 1990/stainless steel - artist Jón Gunnar Árnason.  Commemorates the 200th anniversary of the city of Reykjavik.  The Sun Voyager symbolizes the promise of discovery, hope, progress and freedom. 


Standing 73 meters high above the surrounding city is Hallgrímskirkja, the largest church in Iceland.  Commissioned in 1937 (Architect Guðjón Samúelsson) and designed after the basalt lava flows common in Iceland's landscape, the church was built from 1945-86. Tickets can be purchased inside to take a lift to the top of the clock tower for panoramic views of Reykjavik. 



simple, clean Scandinavian interior
large pipe organ, 15 meters tall, weighing 25 tons by German organ builder Johannes Klais
downtown Reykjavik
Leif Erikson, Icelandic explorer considered the first European to land in North America (Newfoundland, Canada) 500 years before Christopher Columbus.  The statue was a gift from the United States in 1930 commemorating the 1000th anniversary of Iceland's parliament. 

our explorers
Here and there around the city are colorful, fun murals to brighten the day.



maybe this one is a little too honest
 There are even more sculptures dotting the city landscape...

'Looking Seawards' sculpture near the old harbor
sculpture in front of Harpa
Harpa - concert hall and conference center downtown

A few miscellaneous things... 

found by the old harbor
interesting sculpture at the Reykjavik-Keflavik airport

















Friday, April 10, 2015

Happy Easter/Glad Påsk!

Kicked off the Spring/Easter Break with the Spring Hat Parade/performance at the Stockholm International School Thursday morning...  

Sofia's hat
it's so fun seeing all the kids in their colorful hats... it's also fun to spot siblings who obviously made their hats together
Prepped for Easter on Good Friday with the traditional dying of eggs...

yes, mom, that's the green tablecloth I used when I was little!

Decorated for Easter with feathers...


Hunted for giant, Swedish-style Easter eggs at 7am...


Hunted for small eggs filled with treats in the courtyard...

Sofia counting her eggs
Brunched, after church, at Wienercaféet...  a corner cafe in an exclusive shopping area of Stockholm (around the corner from Prada, Gucci... you get the idea).  Wienercaféet feels like a luxurious Parisian cafe.  Definitely a place to be seen having drinks, lunch or fika (coffee and pastries).  Even if you're just a commoner the maître d' makes you feel welcome and the white coated waiters are attentive. A bit of decadence added to the day!The menu consists mostly of sandwiches and small plates as well as a wide selection of Swedish pastries.  The main dining room has street view and the backroom has a view of the kitchen... both equally entertaining. 

fish soup
chicken club with bacon and egg

For a full review of Easter traditions in Sweden here's last year's blog post.