Sunday, January 12, 2014

Prague Castle

Let me set one thing straight... Prague Castle is not really a castle, it's a city within a city, an imposing set of buildings with spires and towers.  Luckily castle tickets are valid for two days so you can pace yourself (we only hit the minimal highlights).  Two price points cover the tickets - long tour or short tour (admittance to fewer buildings with the short tour).  Ticket offices are located in the second and third courtyards. 

www.hrad.cz
tel 224 372 423 
hours:  Grounds - 5a-Midnight Apr-Oct, 6a-11p Nov-Mar/Gardens - 10a-6p Apr & Oct, to 7p May & Sept, to 9p Jul & Aug, closed Nov-Mar/Historic buildings 9a-6p Apr-Oct, to 4p Nov-Mar
Prague Castle was founded in the 9th Century by Prince Borivoj as a fortified settlement and has always been the seat of Czech rulers and the official residence of the head of state.  There have been four major renovations over the centuries making the area an eclectic mixture of architectural styles.
the main gate (and first courtyard) on Hradcany Square, is topped with baroque statues of battling Titans (1767-70)

After the Velvet Revolution and the fall of communism in 1989, Theodor Pistek, the costume designer for Amadeus, designed these uniforms to replace the communist-era khaki ones.
The changing of the guard takes place every hour on the hour with the biggest display at Noon when banners are exchanged
while a brass band plays from the windows of Plecnik Hall
The Chapel of the Holy Cross is to the right in the second courtyard.  The chapel houses the St. Vitus Treasury (www.kulturanahrade.cz, 10a-6p, adults 300czk/family 600czk).  FYI - your tickets to the historic buildings within the Prague Castle complex do not include the Treasury.  Tickets can be bought in the Chapel of the Holy Cross.  

I love the Lonely Planet's description of the Treasury, "a spectacular collection of ecclesiastical bling that was founded by Charles IV in the 14th century".  It is an amazing display of gold, silver, gemstone encrusted, crystal reliquaries.  A reliquary is a container for relics, usually with physical remains of saints, such as bones, pieces of clothing, or objects associated with saints or other religious figures.  I cannot remember ever seeing or hearing of reliquaries before.  One reliquary on display is a large frame with, basically, a mosaic of smaller reliquaries.  It was found in a junk shop years ago, purchased and donated to the Treasury. 

baroque fountain, second courtyard
Pass through another archway into the third courtyard and you are presented with the stunning facade of the Saint Vitus Cathedral - patron saint of Bohemia, actors, entertainers, and, apparently, over-sleepers!
Construction on the cathedral started in 1344, under Charles IV and lasted for 600 years.  The cathedral was finally consecrated in 1929 and opened to the public.  
Stained glass windows  were created by Czech artists in the early 20th century

baroque silver (2 tons worth) tomb of St. John of Nepomuk- patron saint of Czechs

To the right, around the corner from St. Vitus Cathedral is the Old Royal Palace, the oldest parts of the Prague Castle complex, from 1135.  Czech princesses originally used it but was the King's palace from the 13th-16th centuries.
Late Gothic vaulted ceiling in Vladislav Hall, used for banquets coronations and indoor jousting.  The doorway at the far end is big enough to allow a knight on horseback to enter the hall.
ceramic fireplace - Old Royal Palace
Land Rolls room, ceiling decorated with coats of arms - Old Royal Palace.  Land Rolls were the official books of the Court of Justice of the Realm.

Just beyond the entrance to the Old Royal Palace is a the Story of Prague Castle Museum covering 1000 years of castle history.

Basilica of St. George a Romanesque basilica from the 10th century
fragments of 12th century frescoes

We did not visit the Royal Garden (closed in winter), St. Vitus bell tower, Prague Castle picture gallery,  National Gallery, Powder Tower, Golden Lane, Lobkowicz Palace, Rosenberg Palace, Toy Museum and Daliborka
giving the princess a lift


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